Our mission was simple. Get in. Get out. Go home. Of course nothing is ever easy in this country. Our destination was a nameless postage stamp of a village squatting in a thicket of palm and date trees.
The road leading into the village was a stinking morass of oil and dirt that resembled an airline crash site more then a driveable path. Apparently someone thought poisoning the ground with hundreds of gallons of crude oil was preferable to vehicles kicking dust into the air. As we approached children started sprinting back to the village, the fleetest of foot serving as a tiny phalanx around our armored HMMWVs. Long before we even reached the village we had to dismount to ensure the giddy children didn't accidentally run in the path of our overladen vehicles.
The village wasn’t much to look at, shoddy cement blocks holding up wood and tin roofs that looked like they were stolen from an outdoor flea market. Here and there sun bleached plastic tarps provided feeble patches of shade - making the central courtyard look like the encampment of some lost and routed army. And around it all was a strip of land guarded by two frail jersey cows content with grazing on the low lying branches of desert trees. The only good thing about the village seemed to be the complete and utter absence of tar speckled ground.
As we pulled up and carefully backed up to one of the buildings the village was roiling with scarcely contained excitement. As we started unloading the bushels of supplies the crowd seemed like a cup of superheated water in a microwave, any disturbance would have set them into a frenzy. The CSM and his interpreter started talking with the villagers and explaining what we were here to drop off, and by time he finished the supplies were downloaded.
We had several boxes of toys, clothes and shoes ready to pass out, but as soon as the CSM finished talking the eager children descended on me like a flock of starving pigeons. These were children who had never even dreamed of owning a stuffed animal, let alone had one dangled in front of them. But even that knowledge didn't prepare me for the riot of little hands blindly reaching for toys. The kids were so frantic I couldn't hope to ward them off with my feeble Arabic. Instead I simply dropped the box and let them attack it like sharks in a feeding frenzy. It was a little like watching piranha's strip a carcass in some grainy 1970's wildlife move. One minute there was a box brimming with toys and in the next there was just a crushed piece of cardboard.
SPC Cas was quick enough to block the children from getting at the rest of the boxes, and once the furor started to die down the interpreters started getting the children into orderly lines. The youngest kids were in the front and I will never forget their expressions when we handed them the stuffed animals. It was like watching a diamond catch the light and turn it from a coarse rock into something transcendent. And so it went throughout the afternoon. The village was inundated with gifts, but even the glittering presents couldn't outshine their beaming smiles.
Once all the shoes, toys, and candy were passed out I finally had a chance to take a breath. Just being around that boundless enthusiasm was draining, so I moved back to the HMMWV to get a drink. And then I noticed one of the village patriarchs sitting in the dirt. It seemed odd that anyone would be sitting in that particularly dusty patch of land and when I turned to do a double take I noticed something I hadn't a minute before. The gentleman had no legs.
I was taken aback, my mind struggling to understand how anyone could manage in this brutal environment with such an impediment. But the moment that thought crossed my mind the man hefted himself up with his gnarled hands and dragged himself back to his home. I followed him into the dim one room hovel and found him talking to the interpreter and the CSM. After a few minutes the CSM pulled me aside and explained the story. Apparently this man had once had a wheelchair, but it had been destroyed by Saddam's men years before. Now it sat in a rusted pile behind his home. He was too proud to ask us to help him with its repair. In fact the interpreter had to coax him into admitting that he even wanted it fixed. In a culture that places a special emphasis on honor this man had no qualms about dragging himself along. His only wish was to hold his child and take him from place to place like any other father.
Needless to say that wheelchair is sitting in our FOB right now. With a few parts and some hard work our mechanics just might be able to make that wish come true.
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